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Urgent support. If you plan to breed your mice, a ratio of one male to no more than three females is typical, Wyss says. Otherwise, never house unaltered males and females together. Some people have colony breeding setups, so typically does housed with one buck.
In those cases, typically no animals are removed from the setup, and there is usually a constant supply of pups being born. Larger tanks, like a 55 gallon for example, have larger floor space but are significantly taller as well. Ammonia can settle in a tank without proper circulation and cause respiratory issues in the mice. Stanton also stressed the risk of mice developing upper respiratory infections easily in a dirty cage or enclosure that is not well ventilated.
She recommends adequately cleaning their enclosure, including toys and houses, at least once a week and making sure there is plenty of ventilation. A wire cage like Ware Chew Proof cage provides plenty of ventilation for your pet mice.
It also is designed to detach easily for simple cleanup. Some are incorrectly sexed, have behavioural problems, are unwell or severely inbred, which can cause a lot of issues as time goes on. Breeders are another option which may be able to provide you with specific types of mice, such as show-quality mice, certain colours, pairs or trios, specific genders, etc.
Typically the mice from professional breeders are not nearly as inbred, are good quality and come from healthy, lively parents that have been cared for very well. Make sure you find a good breeder, and don't be afraid to ask lots of questions. Good quality photos, updates, evidence of quality mouse care, breeding history and communication are essential. If a breeder is dismissive, doesn't ask you questions in return, won't provide photos or is selling them unusually cheap with little information, they are just rodent farmers, and the animals are likely sickly, inbred or poor quality.
Animal shelters are a good place to get mice; many have them looking for good new homes, and the mice there are in desperate need of a forever home.
It's not very common you will have a mouse with serious health problems as only good-quality animals are suitable for rehoming in shelters, and the shelter will vet you out before handing them over anyway. Be warned that many of the mice in shelters could be anywhere from 2 to 12 months old or more and you are less likely to get a baby one. Having something suitable to keep your mouse in is essential. They will spend most of their lives in their cage, so be sure to get something that is within the RSPCA guidelines, is comfortable, secure and safe.
Mice do not require as much space as hamsters, but if you are keeping more than one you should greatly increase the amount of space you have for their comfort and to prevent a severe psychological disorder known as cage rage. When choosing a cage, please avoid brands with lots of tubes, tight spaces or a low height. Many of these cages are far too small and well below the requirements set about by animal welfare.
Plastic cages with lots of tubes promote negative bacteria to grow and fumes to build which can poison your pet or cause infections, the fumes can smell bad. These cages may look fun but they can be so physically harmful to your pet as well as not being spacious enough, it is important to give your pets the best possible chance to maximise happiness and lifespan. Mice can have most standard bar cages for hamsters, mice, etc.
Fancy mice do not and cannot escape through 1cm bars unless they are extremely young and infantile. Whilst they do have few bones, if they cannot get their skull through the bars, they cannot get out and are not strong enough to bend non-flexi bars. Always select strong bars with a strong door. You can buy bar cages with very fine gaps if you are still worried. Typically, if you can't get an adult small-medium first finger knuckle through the bars, the mouse cannot get out.
Your other options are tanks or bin cages. If you choose a bin cage please do lots of research beforehand to prevent injury to yourself or the mouse. They can be hard to build, but very good and a much cheaper option. All should have a mesh or holed lid the mouse cannot escape from with plenty of air circulation, should be kept out of direct sunlight or from heat sources and should be clean and fully secure.
It is easier to handle a mouse than you might think. You can lift them easily by the root closest part to the body of the tail, slipping a hand underneath to cup around them. Do not let go until they are calm and still to prevent them leaping from or slipping through your hands. Mice do not usually bite but may do so if frightened. If one were to bite you, you must not hit it, push it or let go of it as this will frighten the mouse further and make it harder to tame. Always hold them over a soft surface, especially when taming, and keep them close to your body.
It makes them feel safer. Mice can tame quite quickly within a couple of weeks and be very friendly pets. They enjoy human company and can be very easy to handle.
After about four days, it is okay to start handling them each day for a few minutes. Let them get used to your smell, your face and your voice and they will warm to you quickly. Mice are very happy and curious and will soon eat from your hands and climb up your arm!
As I mentioned before, you should not attempt to pull a mouse off of cage bars or if they are holding something as it can pull the skin off of their bones or cause them serious distress and pain. Fancy mice are extremely social animals, but only the females should be kept together. Females can happily live in pairs, trios, or even small groups with enough space and can bond very quickly. It is very easy to introduce female mice; seldom will they fight or not accept one another.
Males, on the other hand, should be kept alone and away from other mice. They are insanely territorial and highly aggressive towards other males. Male and female mice can easily breed out of control and will likely fight.
In some rare instances, males can be kept together if they have been brought up together from the same litter, but fighting may still occur. The moment blood is drawn, they should be separated for good. Yes, they can, provided they are supervised at all times. Males and females may still fight; however, it is not a territorial attack, and males will not usually show aggression towards females and can be quite social with them.
You should not attempt to put two males together, especially if fighting has already occurred. This can be dangerous for you as well as them and may result in a very nasty bite to your fingers or the other mouse. Yes, but females may become lonely and depressed. Males will live very peacefully alone and often strike up a strong bond with their owners and do not require other mice to socialise with.
Female mice are happier in groups with other girls and will happily compete in a non-aggressive manner for your attention. Ideally, no. You don't know if that other mouse is carrying any infectious diseases or infections or what its temperament towards other mice is—regardless of gender.
It is best to quarantine any mice before putting them together, especially if they have been near wild mice, other animals or unknown fancy mice. Mice need to find someplace warm to live until spring, which drives them into homes, attics, and garages.
One question we hear a lot is the difference between having one mouse or an infestation of mice. If you are actively seeing signs of mice in your home, this means there is an infestation.
Rodent droppings let you know that a mouse was there. Droppings can be found anywhere, but some of the more common places include along baseboards, under appliances, and in pantries and cabinets. If you have dusty areas along your baseboards and corners, use a flashlight to look for tiny footprints or tail trails.
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